
Makalawena Beach: A Guide to Hawaiʻi's Most Perfect Coves
Often called the best beach on the Big Island, Makalawena isn't a single stretch of sand but a series of nine stunning coves. Reaching it requires effort, but the reward is unforgettable.
Makalawena Beach isn't just a destination; it's an adventure. For those willing to traverse a rugged 4WD track or hike across an un forgiving lava field, the reward is a string of crescent-shaped coves with powdery white sand, crystalline water, and a palpable sense of seclusion. This is not a drop-and-go Kona beach; it's a place you earn, making that first glimpse of its turquoise water all the sweeter.
Located north of Kailua-Kona within the boundaries of Kekaha Kai State Park, 'Mak,' as it's often called, feels worlds away from the resorts and traffic. It’s a postcard-perfect vision of old Hawaiʻi, a place to disconnect from everything but the sun, sand, and surf.
What Makes Makalawena Beach So Special?
Unlike the single, long stretches of sand found elsewhere, Makalawena is a collection of unique coves separated by rocky lava formations and backed by shady kiawe trees and impressive dunes. The main, central cove is the largest and most popular, offering a generous expanse of sand perfect for spreading out. But the real magic lies in exploring the smaller, more intimate coves to the north, where you can often find a private patch of paradise all to yourself.
Behind the dunes lies ʻŌpaeʻula Pond, a large, spring-fed brackish water pond that is a designated bird sanctuary and National Natural Landmark. This protected wetland provides a vital habitat for native Hawaiian birds like the āeʻo (Hawaiian stilt) and ʻalae keʻokeʻo (Hawaiian coot). The juxtaposition of arid lava, lush wetland, and pristine beach makes the entire area a unique and ecologically significant landscape.
How to Get to Makalawena Beach
There are no easy roads to Makalawena. Access is challenging by design, which is precisely why it remains so pristine. You have two primary options, both originating from the entrance to Kekaha Kai State Park off Highway 19, between mile markers 90 and 91.
Option 1: The Hike from Mahaiʻula Beach (Recommended)
This is the most common and recommended method for reaching Makalawena. It's a beautiful, adventurous route that combines two of the Big Island's best beaches in one outing.
- Drive to Kekaha Kai State Park: Follow the paved but rough road from the highway for 1.5 miles to the parking area for Mahaiʻula Beach.
- Park and Walk to Mahaiʻula: From the parking lot, it's a short 5-minute walk to the stunning Mahaiʻula Beach. Enjoy this spot for a bit, as it’s a worthy destination in its own right.
- Begin the Hike: Walk north (to your left, facing the ocean) to the far end of Mahaiʻula Beach. You will see a rough path leading over an ʻaʻā lava field. This is your trail.
- Cross the Lava Field: The hike across the lava is approximately 0.8 miles and takes 20-30 minutes. The "trail" is marked by footprints and worn rock, but it's uneven and fully exposed to the sun. Sturdy, closed-toe shoes are essential. Do not attempt this in flip-flops. You will cross the unpaved 4WD road along the way; continue straight on the foot trail.
- Arrival: The trail descends through a grove of trees and emerges onto the southern end of Makalawena Beach. From here, you can explore the various coves.
Option 2: The 4WD Road
For those with a capable high-clearance 4x4 vehicle and a taste for adventure, a rough, unmaintained lava road provides more direct access. A word of caution: This road is seriously rugged. Most rental car agreements explicitly prohibit driving on such roads. If you get stuck or damage the vehicle, you are entirely on your own and financially responsible.
- Take the Turn-off: A short distance after entering Kekaha Kai State Park from the highway, you'll see a very rough, unpaved road branching off to the left (north). This is the utility road to Makalawena.
- The Drive: Engage your 4WD and navigate the extremely bumpy and sandy track for about 1.5 miles. There are large rocks, deep sand pits, and sharp lava to contend with.
- Parking: The road eventually ends at a small, sandy parking area just behind the dunes of Makalawena. From here, it's a short walk to the beach.
Do NOT attempt this route with a standard car, SUV, or even a low-clearance AWD vehicle. You will get stuck.
Beach Activities: What to Do at Makalawena
Makalawena is a place for simple pleasures. The main activities are relaxing, swimming in the calm coves, and exploring the unique coastline.
Swimming and Lounging
The primary appeal of Makalawena is its sheer beauty and tranquility. The sand is soft and white, and the water is typically calm and incredibly inviting, especially in the protected coves. It's an ideal spot to swim, float, and simply soak in the spectacular surroundings. Find a shady spot under a kiawe tree and spend the day with a good book.
Snorkeling
While not considered a premier snorkeling destination like Kealakekua Bay, Makalawena can offer good snorkeling when ocean conditions are calm. The best spots are typically around the rocky points that separate the coves. You can expect to see a variety of reef fish and, quite often, honu (Hawaiian Green Sea Turtles) gracefully swimming offshore or resting on the sand. As always, give these protected animals plenty of space (at least 10 feet) and never touch or feed them.
Exploring the Coastline
Take the time to walk the full length of the beach. Discovering the hidden coves to the north is part of the adventure. Each one has its own character. The northernmost coves are often completely empty, offering a true Robinson Crusoe experience. You can also walk south to revisit Mahaiʻula Beach and the even more secluded Kaʻūleoli Beach beyond it.
What to Bring: Be Prepared
Makalawena is undeveloped. There are no facilities of any kind—no water, no restrooms, no lifeguards, no trash cans. You must be completely self-sufficient.
- Water: Bring more than you think you'll need. The hike is hot and exposed. A minimum of 1 liter per person is a good starting point.
- Footwear: Sturdy shoes (hiking shoes or athletic sneakers) for the hike are non-negotiable.
- Sun Protection: Reef-safe sunscreen, wide-brimmed hats, sunglasses, and rash guards are essential. There is very little shade on the trail.
- Food and Snacks: Pack a lunch and energy-rich snacks. There is nowhere to buy food.
- Beach Gear: Towels, snorkel gear, and an umbrella if you want guaranteed shade.
- A Bag for Trash: You must pack out everything you pack in. Leave the beach cleaner than you found it. The principle of mālama ʻāina (to care for the land) is paramount here.
Rules, Safety, and Respect
Visiting Makalawena comes with a responsibility to protect its fragile environment.
- Know Your Limits: There are no lifeguards. Be aware of the ocean conditions, which can change quickly. If the surf is high, do not go in.
- Pack It In, Pack It Out: As a State Park, all trash must be removed. According to the State of Hawaiʻi Division of State Parks, leaving trash can result in fines.
- Respect Wildlife: Keep a respectful distance from all wildlife, especially honu and the native birds in the wetlands.
- Protect the Land: Stay on established trails. The dunes are fragile and prone to erosion, and the ʻŌpaeʻula Pond is a protected habitat. Do not walk on the dunes or enter the pond area.
- Park Hours: Kekaha Kai State Park has posted hours, typically opening at 8:00 AM and closing around 7:00 PM. The gate on the highway is locked nightly. Be sure to be back at your car and out of the park before closing time.
Makalawena Beach is a true gem of the Kona coast. For those who put in the effort, its pristine sands and tranquil waters offer a glimpse into a wilder, more serene Hawaiʻi. Plan your trip with a knowledgeable local guide by exploring options on Big Island Tours.
Related Reading
- A Guide to Kekaha Kai State Park: /blog/kekaha-kai-state-park-guide
- The Best Beaches in Kona: /blog/best-kona-beaches
- Hiking the Big Island's Best Trails: /blog/big-island-hiking-trails