
A Guide to Hawaiian Heiau on the Big Island: 6 Sites to Visit
Heiau are sacred Hawaiian temples, powerful places of worship and connection. This guide introduces you to the history of heiau and details six significant sites on the Big Island that you can visit with respect.
The Big Island is dotted with hundreds of wahi pana, or sacred places, that speak to the deep history and spiritual life of the Hawaiian people. Among the most powerful of these are heiau—ancient temples built of lava rock, places of immense spiritual power and cultural importance. To visit a heiau is to step into Hawaiʻi's living past. This guide will help you understand their significance and introduce six important heiau you can visit with knowledge and respect.
Heiau are not ruins; they are revered cultural sites, many of which are still used for ceremony today. Understanding their purpose and the protocols for visiting is essential for any traveler wishing to engage with the island on a deeper level.
What is a Heiau? A Sacred Connection
A heiau is a traditional Hawaiian temple or place of worship. These structures served a wide range of functions at the heart of Hawaiian society. They were built meticulously, without mortar, using lava rock and coral. Their size and complexity varied depending on their purpose and the rank of the chief who commissioned them.
There were several types of heiau, including:
- Luakini: Large, state-level temples dedicated to the war god Kū. These were often where aliʻi nui (high chiefs) conducted political and religious ceremonies, which could include human sacrifice. Puʻukoholā Heiau is a prime example.
- Māpele: Agricultural heiau dedicated to Lono, the god of fertility, rain, and agriculture. These were for rituals to ensure bountiful harvests and community prosperity.
- Hōʻola: Heiau dedicated to healing.
- Koʻa: Fishing shrines, typically smaller stone structures near the coast, used to pray for an abundance of fish.
Heiau were the spiritual and political centers of their districts (moku). Their construction and use were governed by kapu (sacred laws), and they were places of immense mana (spiritual power). When you visit one, you are standing on profoundly sacred ground.
How to Visit a Heiau Respectfully
Visiting a heiau is a privilege, not just a tourist activity. Your conduct should reflect an understanding of their deep cultural importance. Adherence to protocol is a sign of respect for the Hawaiian people and their ancestors.
- Do Not Touch, Climb, or Move Anything: The cardinal rule. Never climb on the rock walls or platforms. Do not move, stack, or take any rocks. The stones were placed with purpose and prayer; altering them is deeply disrespectful.
- Stay on Marked Paths: Many heiau are delicate archaeological and cultural sites. Sticking to designated trails prevents erosion and damage to unseen features.
- Speak Softly: These are places of reverence and contemplation, not playgrounds. Keep your voice low and avoid loud conversations.
- Do Not Leave Offerings (Hoʻokupu): Unless you are invited to participate in a cultural ceremony with a specific protocol, do not leave offerings. Items like coins, candy, plastic flowers, or other modern trinkets are considered desecration. A respectful presence is the best offering you can give.
- No Food or Drink: Do not eat, drink, or smoke on or immediately adjacent to the heiau structures.
- Be Mindful and Reflective: Take a moment to silently appreciate the history, engineering, and spiritual significance of the place. Imagine the ceremonies that took place and the role the heiau played in daily life.
Puʻukoholā Heiau National Historic Site
Located on the Kohala Coast, Puʻukoholā Heiau is one of the most significant and imposing historical structures in all of Hawaiʻi. The name translates to "Hill of the Whale." According to the National Park Service (NPS), this massive luakini was built by Kamehameha I between 1790 and 1791. A prophet told him that if he built a heiau to the war god Kū on this hill, he would succeed in uniting the Hawaiian Islands. Heeding the prophecy, Kamehameha ordered its construction, a feat that involved a human chain many miles long to pass stones from Pololū Valley.
- What to See: The visitor center provides excellent context. A paved path leads to an overlook with commanding views of the massive heiau, which is approximately 224 by 100 feet. Below Puʻukoholā, you can also see the older Mailekini Heiau and the submerged remains of Hale o Kapuni Heiau, a shark god shrine.
- Visitor Info: The heiau itself is sacred and access is restricted. You view it from the overlook. The park is managed by the NPS, is free to enter, and has rangers on-site to answer questions.
Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park
On the South Kona coast lies Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau, a site of profound cultural importance. This was a puʻuhonua, or place of refuge. In ancient Hawaiʻi, if someone broke a kapu, the penalty was death. Their only chance for survival was to evade their pursuers and reach the boundaries of a puʻuhonua. Once inside, a priest would perform a ceremony of absolution, and the person could return to society, safe.
- What to See: The park is a beautifully preserved piece of the past. The Great Wall, over 1,000 feet long and 10 feet high, separates the royal grounds from the sanctuary. Inside the puʻuhonua, you'll find the stunning Hale o Keawe Heiau, a temple that once housed the bones of 23 deified chiefs. Fierce-looking kiʻi (carved wooden images) stand guard. The royal grounds outside the wall feature fishponds, canoe halau (houses), and a glimpse into the daily life of the aliʻi.
- Visitor Info: Managed by the NPS, there is an entrance fee per vehicle. A self-guided walking tour is the best way to experience the site. The park's setting on the coast is spectacular, especially near sunset.
Moʻokini Heiau State Monument
Located in a remote spot in North Kohala not far from Kamehameha I's birthplace, Moʻokini Heiau is a National Historic Landmark and a place of powerful mana. This luakini is one of the oldest heiau on the island, with a history dating back to as early as 480 A.D. According to tradition, it was founded by the high priest Kuamoʻo Moʻokini, and the physical structure seen today was rebuilt in the 13th century by the Tahitian priest Paʻao, who introduced a more rigid kapu system.
- What to See: The heiau is a large, walled rectangle with an imposing, somber presence. Its isolation adds to its mystique. Nearby is the Kamehameha I Birthsite, marked by stones. Moʻokini Heiau is under the care of the Kahuna Nui (High Priestess) of the Moʻokini family line.
- Visitor Info: Access is via a rough, unpaved road that often requires a 4-wheel drive vehicle. There is no staff on site. This is a place for quiet reflection, not a casual stop. Be sure to check road conditions before attempting the drive.
Ahuʻena Heiau: A Royal Residence
Sitting on the shore of Kamakahonu Bay in the heart of Kailua-Kona, Ahuʻena Heiau is one of the most accessible and historically rich sites on the island. After uniting the islands, Kamehameha I moved his royal court to this spot, which became the capital of the new kingdom. He rededicated this heiau to Lono in 1813 as a temple of peace and prosperity. It functioned as his personal temple and the political center of the Hawaiian Kingdom until his death here in 1819.
- What to See: The heiau and its associated structures have been beautifully reconstructed on its original foundation. You can see the main thatched-roof temple building, an oracle tower (ʻanuʻu), and several kiʻi. The heiau sits on a small island connected by a stone walkway.
- Visitor Info: The heiau is located on the grounds of the Courtyard King Kamehameha's Kona Beach Hotel. It can be viewed from the beach and the hotel grounds. While you cannot walk onto the heiau itself, the proximity allows for a wonderful opportunity to learn and reflect right in town.
Lapakahi State Historical Park
Lapakahi, located on the North Kohala coast, offers a different perspective. It’s not a single grand heiau, but the remnants of a 600-year-old Hawaiian fishing village. Walking the loop trail here gives you a sense of an entire community (ahupuaʻa) and its relationship to the land and sea. Along the path, you'll find the stone foundations of homes, canoe houses, and several koʻa (fishing shrines).
- What to See: The self-guided tour winds through the partially restored village. You can see how the homes were laid out and identify the fishing shrines along the coast. It’s a fascinating look at the daily life that supported the greater spiritual world of the heiau.
- Visitor Info: Managed by the State of Hawaiʻi, entry is typically free. The trail is about a mile long over rocky terrain, so wear sturdy shoes and bring water. The landscape is hot, dry, and starkly beautiful.
Keʻekū Heiau at Kahaluʻu Bay
Many visitors know Kahaluʻu Bay for its excellent snorkeling, but right on its shore sit two important heiau. The most prominent is Keʻekū Heiau, a large temple platform built in the 16th century. It sits on the north side of the bay. On the south side is the smaller Hāpaialiʻi Heiau. These sites overlooked the bay, an important source of sustenance, and were likely used for ceremonies related to managing its resources.
- What to See: The massive rock platform of Keʻekū is easily visible. While access onto the structure is kapu, you can walk along its base and appreciate its scale. It provides a powerful contrast to the lively beach scene just yards away.
- Visitor Info: The heiau are adjacent to the public beach park. After snorkeling with the honu (turtles), take a respectful walk over to view the heiau and consider the long history of human activity at this beautiful bay.
Related: A Local's Guide to Historic Kailua Village Related: Exploring the Sunny Kohala Coast Related: Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau: A Visitor's Guide to the Place of Refuge